It's a chubby little puff of a fish with big expressive eyes, a lovely metallic color and enough neurotoxins in its body to kill dozens of human predators. But if it's expertly prepared, it's considered a rare treat. NPR's Ketzel Levine takes a break from Talking Plants to profile fugu, and meets some food lovers who covet its taste.

See a list of restaurants that are licensed to serve fugu.

Chunk-O-Fugu Ready for the pot

Brian Wilke The first-ever bite

Ken Yamamoto Shiki's cheeky chef

February 12, 2003 -- Here's the untold story of my trip to Shiki's in Seattle to experience fugu: I could barely stand to be in the same room with it. I am the worst kind of squeamish vegetarian, and I've been that way for many, many years. Consequently, this assignment would have been more punishment than pleasure if not for Brian Wilke of the Western Culinary Institute. Brian is the worst kind of carnivore, and his unbridled delight at being given the chance to sample this deadly delicacy was (almost) a joy to behold.

If you happen to be one of those people -- the kind that eat food with a face -- the word on the block about fugu is that it's best sliced as sashimi, but is pretty much a ho-hum white fish served any other way. Don't trouble yourself with the question of whether or not it's worth the risk, because the risk is pretty much non-existent (I'm talking about eating FDA-certified fugu in a fugu-certified restaurant). Brian Wilke says that our drive on I-5 to get to Seattle was far more treacherous than eating this tetrodotoxin-laced fish.

Your biggest challenge in eating fugu is going to be finding it. There are, this year, only 17 restaurants in the States that have it on the menu, and most of them are in New York. If you're reading this in February and you want to do the fugu thing, you could be disappointed. Supplies truly won't last. In any event, since fugu needs to be thawed out in advance, you'll need to call ahead and book your meal; don't be surprised if you find yourself making a reservation nine months in advance.

As for Shiki's in Seattle, don't wait for fugu to go there. Chef Yamamoto runs a lovely, homey, vege-friendly establishment, and fills his small restaurant with a great big heart.

Go Fish! Fugu Links

Shiki
From Thestranger.com, this journalist sets out to discover first-hand whether eating fugu is worth the risk.

The Deadly Delicacy
An article from Destroy-all-monsters.com about the history and risks associated with fugu.

If the Genes Fit...
Guess what poisonous fish's genome looks like ours.

The Center for Disease Control posted a report last April on recent incidents of tetrodotoxin poisoning. The previous report dates from 1996

Puffernet
For the live fish enthusiast. The author's also got a well-written article on the blowfish poison, tetrodotoxin. Just beware the annoying pop-up windows.

I Survived Fugu Poisoning
Here's a first person account of one woman's close-call after eating fugu in Japan. We can't vouch for its veracity.